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            石磨打豆腐

            2018-01-29 13:59:40作者:沈長洪打印訂閱
            [導讀]“二十三祭灶官,二十四掃房子,二十五打豆腐……”一到臘月,這首過年的歌謠就會浮現在很多人的心頭。
            
            
                            
            
              “二十三祭灶官,二十四掃房子,二十五打豆腐……”一到臘月,這首過年的歌謠就會浮現在很多人的心頭。
              豆腐是農家過年時的家常菜,雖說二十五打豆腐,但一般會根據天氣調整,因為豆腐難以保存,如果打早了味道就不再鮮美了。
              打豆腐前一天要先泡豆子。新鮮的干黃豆淘洗干凈,然后在陶缸或木制的大圓桶里浸泡一天一夜。第二天撈起,瀝干水就可以放在磨盤上磨豆子了。
              記憶里,我家的石磨架在院子里一個土坯搭成的臺子上,由兩扇圓形石磨組成,兩扇磨之間有一個鐵軸連接,接觸面上都排列著整齊的磨齒,使用的時候,推動磨盤上特有的支架,磨盤就轉動起來。這樣就能把豆子磨碎了。
              推磨一般是爺爺的任務,奶奶則掌握送料的配比和多少。隨著磨盤嗡嗡嗡地轉起,白色的豆汁從磨盤流出,最后匯集到磨床下的大圓木桶里。磨好的豆汁,被分成幾份等候發落。灶臺上這時已經燒好了熱水,把其中的一份豆汁倒入另一只大圓木桶里,用熱水充分地攪拌稀釋,再放入菜油以便于下漿。稀釋后的豆汁,再倒入四角撐開懸空掛著的方形白紗布中過濾,過濾剩下的豆渣,用青菜和菜油炒了,也不失為一種美味。
              過濾后的生豆漿,必須還要經過煎煮。煮豆漿非常講究火候,開始可用大火,一旦鍋面起了一層豆皮,就改用小火慢煮。煮好的豆漿再倒入一個底尖肚圓的大陶缸內冷卻,再倒入熟石膏和水制成的鹵水,此之謂“點鹵”。
              點鹵也是一門技術活,豆腐的“老”和“嫩”,全在此一舉。決定點鹵的老嫩,在于豆腐的用途:現吃的往往會少放鹵水,吃起來口感較“嫩”;需加工其他豆制品的,如“生條”“豆腐乳”等,往往會多放鹵水,以便于加工。
              點過鹵水的豆漿,在陶缸中慢慢冷卻,變成了豆腐花和淡黃色的混合體。這時候盛一碗和著豆液散發著清香的豆花,再加幾勺白糖,美美地喝下,一身疲倦頓時會煙消云散。
              豆花成形后,再倒入方形的木格中,用白紗布包起,壓實成型,豆腐才真正做成了。做好的豆腐除了留幾塊現吃或送人的,一部分會放入木制的水桶里保存,正月里能吃很長時間。吃的時候炸一炸放上豬肉白菜粉條,香味會渲染整個院子,讓人饞涎欲滴。
              母親還常常把多余的豆腐制成豆腐乳,做法也非常簡單:淺底大盆內鋪滿干凈的稻草,豆腐改成四方小塊,然后鋪滿在稻草上,放入陰涼通風處發酵,待其上長滿長長的白毫,再拌入粗鹽和紅辣椒粉,裝壇,可以吃一整年。
              如今有了電磨,石磨已經漸漸消失在人們的視線。偶爾回老家,在一些舊宅院里還能看到,只剩下圓形的磨盤,有的被人們放在院里當做了桌面,更多是被遺棄在院里的角落。因為風吹日曬,曾經堅硬無比的石塊也出現了風化,如同一個耄耋老人,臉上布滿了歲月的滄桑。
              但爺爺奶奶用石磨打豆腐的場景,每年春節,都會再次清晰地浮現在心頭,永遠生動如初。
            原 創 推 薦
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