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          1. 歡迎來到華中雜文網!
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            也說吃喝文章

            2015-05-14 09:05:32作者:管用和打印訂閱
            [導讀] 近來,談酒,談茶,談吃的文章多了起來,不少是名人的作品,也有緊踩著名人腳后跟的。那些文章,往往冠以“文化”的稱謂:“茶文化”、“酒文化”、&

                 近來,談酒,談茶,談吃的文章多了起來,不少是名人的作品,也有緊踩著名人腳后跟的。那些文章,往往冠以“文化”的稱謂:“茶文化”、“酒文化”、“飲食文化”。似乎如此,便豐厚起來,深沉起來,堂皇起來。且引經據典,將今古名流與其聯系,考證出英雄名士的酒緣、茶緣,好像其功名成就得益于斯。把人們的普通嗜好上升到足以修心悟道的高度。從而也顯示其博識、風雅和精彩。本來,喝酒、品茶、吃蟹都是值得寫的。好的文章,也能寫出一種精神境界、人格修養以及一定的文化和社會內涵。可惜的是,不少作品,只是閑聊神侃或者介紹推廣之。也有故作高雅,弄點兒幽默風趣的,也有顯示出一定文字功夫和文學氣息的。但具有獨到見解真實感受和深厚文化積淀的文章少見。有位朋友對我說,現在一些談吃喝玩樂的文章,不過是在步林語堂梁實秋等人的后塵,而又遠遠不及。說句不中聽的話,大有酒足飯飽后無話可說,擺出超凡脫俗的樣兒,弄點兒風雅文字,一股貴族氣。朋友的話雖然說得有些刻薄,但也有值得深思的。

            近一個時期,林語堂梁實秋等人的閑適文章又風行起來。有人便借此議論,認為只有他們的文章才是真正地寫出了人生的體驗,心靈的感悟,這才叫“真散文”、“原散文”,或曰“恢復了散文的本來面貌”。將過去有些作家帶理想色彩和進取精神的散文予以否定。某些刊物上發的散文,針頭線腦閑吟逸唱卿卿我我居多,見風骨見精神見人格有卓識灼見的文章則多乎哉不多也。我如此嘮叨,無意反對富有世故人情興致趣味增長見識的侃談文章,只不過將其推為“真散文”“原散文”的那種說法不敢茍同。我們的散文作者,若只注重茶坊酒肆飯莊和卡拉O K,而無視歷史的腳步、時代的足音、人民的悲歡冷暖;無視真的尋求、善的探討和美的審識,那才是十分可悲的。

                                    ( 原載1995628日《武漢晚報》)

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